The other side of the Bellarine
Barwon Heads sits where the Barwon River runs out to sea, on the west bank of the mouth, with Ocean Grove across the bridge. It's small and easy-going: a main street of cafés, a river beach, an old timber jetty with a restaurant on the end, and a limestone bluff with some of the best rock pools on this stretch of coast.
It's about 25 minutes from the house, so it works as a half-day or a slow full day. If you've watched SeaChange, you'll recognise the place. Barwon Heads was Pearl Bay.
Getting there
From north Torquay, take Horseshoe Bend Road, Blackgate Road and Breamlea Road, then Barwon Heads Road into town. It's about 21 km and 25 minutes, and you don't go anywhere near Geelong. On a summer weekend, the road into town and the parking by the river both get busy, so come in the morning.
On the way you pass the turn to Breamlea and Lake Connewarre, so it's easy to make a morning of both.
The Bluff and the rock pools
The Bluff is the headland at the river mouth. A walking track with several lookouts loops around the top, with views over Bass Strait, the river and back along Thirteenth Beach. Stay on the track, because the cliff edges are fragile. The Earl of Charlemont was wrecked off this headland in 1853. Its anchor and a memorial cairn to the survivors are in Barwon Heads Park, and our shipwreck anchors guide has the story.
Below the cliffs is the Barwon Bluff Marine Sanctuary, 17 hectares of basalt reef with boulders, ledges and rock pools. At low tide you can walk the platforms and find crabs, sea stars, limpets, whelks and seaweeds of every colour. Out in the water there are kelp forests, sponge gardens, rays and Port Jackson sharks for snorkellers on a calm day. Parks Victoria runs guided rock pool rambles in summer.
Go at low tide. Parks Victoria says there's no safe access to the platforms at higher tides, and there's been a recent rockfall, so keep away from the base of the cliffs. Look but don't take anything: it's a marine sanctuary, so shells, rocks and animals stay where they are. The stairs down to the beach are from car parks 27W and 28W on Bluff Road.
The river, the jetty and the bridge
The town side of the river has a strip of sandy beach and a park with a playground, the Charlemont anchor and the old jetties. The jetties and the former fishermen's co-op sheds are heritage-listed. People fish off the jetty, as they have for as long as the town's been here.
The bridge to Ocean Grove is newer than it looks. The original timber bridge opened in 1927. It wore out, and a new road bridge built in the same style, plus a separate footbridge, opened in 2010. Walk across the footbridge for a good view up and down the river.
Pearl Bay
The ABC series SeaChange, with Sigrid Thornton and David Wenham, was filmed here from 1998 to 2000, with Barwon Heads standing in for Pearl Bay. The old bridge, the estuary and the jetty were all in it, and the little blue boatshed by the jetty was Diver Dan's place. It's still there, next to the restaurant. The show put the town on the map, and plenty of real-life sea changers followed.
Thirteenth Beach
On the ocean side of town, Thirteenth Beach runs west from the Bluff towards Breamlea. It's named after the 13th hole of the golf course behind it, and it's a well-known surf beach. The Barwon Heads 13th Beach Surf Life Saving Club patrols on weekends from November to April, so swim between the flags when they're up. Outside those times it's an exposed surf beach and best left to surfers. If that's you, there's covered storage for boards and wetsuits back at the house.
The golf course is the Barwon Heads Golf Club, whose 1920s clubhouse is heritage-listed. If you've brought the clubs, our 13th Beach Golf Links guide explains how visitor tee times work there.
A day in Barwon Heads
Morning: the Bluff at low tide
Check the tides before you leave the house and time your arrival for low tide. Walk the Bluff track first, then head down to the rock pools. Bring shoes with some grip, because the platforms are slippery.
Lunch: on the pier or in the main street
At The Heads, the restaurant on the jetty, does modern Australian food with a lean towards seafood, and it's open seven days from midday. Book ahead in summer, or grab something from the cafés on Hitchcock Avenue and eat it in the park.
Afternoon: the river
Walk over the footbridge, look at the anchor, let the kids loose in the playground or on the river beach, and head home before the commuters fill Blackgate Road.
Barwon Heads FAQ
How far is Barwon Heads from Torquay?
About 25 minutes and 21 km from north Torquay, via Blackgate Road, Breamlea Road and Barwon Heads Road.
When is the best time to see the rock pools?
At low tide. There's no safe access to the platforms when the tide is up, so check the tide times first.
Where was SeaChange filmed?
In Barwon Heads, which played Pearl Bay. The jetty, the river and the blue boatshed beside the jetty restaurant are the spots to look for.
Is Thirteenth Beach patrolled?
The surf club patrols on weekends from November to April. At other times it's an unpatrolled surf beach.
Can I collect shells at the Bluff?
No. It's a marine sanctuary, so leave the shells, rocks and animals where you find them.
Is it good for kids?
Yes. The rock pools at low tide, the playground by the river and an ice cream in the main street make an easy family day.
The anchor and the wreck it came from are in our shipwreck anchors guide, and the lake and beach on the way are in Breamlea and Lake Connewarre. For more of the Bellarine, see the Queenscliff day trip, and for another rock pool morning closer to home, Point Danger. To stay 25 minutes away, check dates and send an enquiry.
Sources
Facts on this page were checked against these sources on 19 October 2026. Opening hours, patrols, rules and closures change — check with the source before you go.
- Barwon Bluff Marine Sanctuary — Parks Victoria
- Barwon Bluff Marine Sanctuary — Visit Geelong & the Bellarine
- Barwon Heads — Victorian Places
- Barwon Heads Jetties & Co-op Sheds — Victorian Heritage Database
- At The Heads — Visit Geelong & the Bellarine
- Barwon Heads — Wikipedia
- Barwon Heads 13th Beach SLSC — PlaySport